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Andrea Grossi

Andrea Grossi

Andrea Grossi’s “Deusland” collection is not only a beautiful and poetic expression of graphic semiology, but also a brilliantly creative prognostic of the future of humanity.

By studying and correlating two institutions that have tragically shaped the way western society is today - the catholic church and nazism - he manages to evoke strong and delightfully disturbing images that invite us to reflect upon where we are headed towards with current social mindsets and practices.

His remarkable prints give us both a historical overview of monarchic, clerical and nazi oppressions, and brutally expose what the church covered as the ultimate form of control: the human body (we love the humor in the Papal garment pattern with the naked chest print).
The austere masks suggest violent silencing and suppression of human individuality.

When in his book “Discipline and Punishment”, Foucault said “(..) the body now serves as an instrument or intermediary: if one intervenes upon it to imprison it, or to make it work, it is in order to deprive the individual of a liberty that is regarded both as a right and as a property (..)”, he is inferring that to control society, one must control it’s sexuality.

Grossi’s mastery in architectural constructions allow elaborate shapes and volumes to take place, taking us back to Charles Worth’s mesmerizing *_Robe de Cour_* (court garment) of the XVIII century. Yes, he exquisitely reread Louis XVI’s court’s famous *_Paniers_*. And worn by men (genius much?).

We can’t help but notice that oriental elements also show up timidly in his astonishing prints, as well as in the kimono-shaped jacket we fell in love with, layered over a functional denim jumpsuit that makes us wonder upon sustainable and eco-friendly practices, much needed in fashion. Moreover, impermeable-looking materials call us out to a fair sense of toxic protection.

His predictions become even more intriguing when we come across northern-american western references with a much less male-chauvinist behavior, but preserving it’s moral-anarchy mood.

Way to go, Grossi!

Pedro Milanezi

Polimoda, Hyeres


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