Like in many areas of fashion, a natural look is amazing, but an overly artificial is even better, what we hate is what is in between.
ÃO presented their show at Projeto Estufa, São Paulo Fashion Week for the third time now, and has proved that a brand doesn’t have to have our exact same style to present an amazing show. We value any form of fashion expression, as long as it's young, creative and break away from the boredom of commerciality, at least repetitive conservative commerciality (we work in a capitalist industry, nonetheless) - even creative fashion...
Before even starting, ÃO was already ahead of the competition, by proposing a discussion on excess (nothing sexy like it, don’t you agree Anna Dello Russo?) and body alteration. Funnily enough there was another brand that talked about body alteration (of course, besides comme des garçons), but we loved that ÃO discussed it without just copy pasting comme aesthetic! We love the idea of artificiality, industrialism and we love the fresh point of view they gave to it, in a very fresh and brazilian point of view!
Right from the first model that walked down the runway, you could see that it would be a styling to remember. The styling proposed by Marcio Banfi, brought women showing oily skin and hair, hair stuck together in unusual shapes and fixed smiles on the models faces. The production around the outfits worked flawlessly with the latex pieces, working in perfect harmony with it It was like the clothing expanded itself throughout the body. It wasn’t only the pieces that were made out of plastic, it was the whole person coming out of it.
Was it a critique on plastic surgery and body alterations? Or was it an ode to it? We will never be sure, but we hope it was meant to be the last.
About the clothes, they were minimal. It wasn’t a show made of complex cuts, but rather, of great focus on the material that composed those pieces. You can see the struggle, the roughness, and, if we may be so daring, aggressive constriction on some of the design elements. You could see ruflles, pulling the fabric, creating tension; latex cut in raw edges; and other fabrics, made wrinkled and crunched by pure artificiality of the designer! We’re surely hungry for more !
Eduardo Costa - editor